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This is a very strong statement, coming as
it does from so high an authority, and vegetarians would do
well to hear it in mind when discussing the subject of
vegetarianism with those who differ from them. Sir Henry
proceeds as follows:—“The haricot ranks just above lentils,
which have been so much praised of late, and rightly, the
haricot being to most palates more agreeable. By most stomachs,
too, haricots are more easily digested than meat is; and,
consuming weight for weight, the eater feels lighter and less
oppressed, as a rule, after the leguminous dish, while the
comparative cost is very greatly in favour of the latter.”
To boil haricot beans proceed as follows. We
refer, of course, to the dried white haricot beans, the best of
which are those known as Soissons. The beans should be soaked
in cold water overnight, and in the morning any that may be
found floating on the top of the water should be thrown away.
Suppose the quantity be a quart; place these in a saucepan with
two quarts of cold water, slightly salted. As soon as time
water conies to the boil, move it so that the beans will only
simmer gently; they must then continue simmering till they are
tender. This generally takes about three hours, and if the
water is hard, it is advisable to put in a tiny piece of soda.
This is the simple way of cooking beans usually recommended in
cookery-books when they are served up with a dish of meat, such
as a leg of mutton à la Bretonne, where the beans are served in
some rich brown gravy containing fat. In vegetarian cookery, of
course, we must proceed entirely differently, and there are
various ways in which this nourishing dish can be served, as
savoury and as appetising, and indeed more so, than if we had
assistance from the slaughter-house. We will now proceed to
give a few instances.
In the first place, it will greatly assist
the flavour of the beans if we boil with them one or two onions
and a dessertspoonful of savoury herbs. Supposing, however, we
have them boiled plain. Take a large dry crust of bread and rub
the outside well over with one or two beads of garlic. Place
this crust of bread with the beans after they have been
strained off, and toss them lightly about with the crust
without breaking the beans. Remove the crust and moisten the
beans while hot with a lump of butter, add a brimming
dessertspoonful of chopped blanched parsley; squeeze the juice
of a lemon over the whole, and serve. Instead of butter we can
add, as they always do in Italy, two or three tablespoonfuls of
pure olive oil. Those who have conquered the unreasonable
English prejudice against the use of oil will probably find
this superior to butter.
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