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We think these few preliminary observations
necessary as we have to overcome a very strong English
prejudice, which is too apt to despise everything of which the
remark can be made—“Ah! but there is very little nourishment in
it.” Vegetarian soups, as a rule, and especially the thin ones,
must be regarded as a light and pleasant flavouring which, with
a small piece of white bread enables the most obstinately
delicate stomach to commence a repast that experience has found
best adapted to its requirements.
The basis of all soup is stock,
and in making stock we, of course, have to depend upon
vegetables, fruit, or some kind of farinaceous food. To a
certain extent the water in which any kind of vegetable has
been boiled may be regarded as stock, especially water that
has boiled roots, such as potatoes; or grains, such as rice.
It will not, however, be necessary to enter into any general
description as to the best method of obtaining nutriment in
a liquid form from vegetables and grain, as directions will
be given in each recipe, but a few words are necessary on
the general subject of flavouring stock. In making ordinary
soup we are very much dependent for flavour, if the soup be
good, on the meat, the vegetables acting only as
accessories. In making stock for vegetarian soups we are
chiefly dependent for flavour on the vegetables themselves,
and consequently great care must be taken that these
flavourings are properly blended. The great
difficulty in giving directions in cookery-books, and in
understanding them when given, is the insuperable one of
avoiding vague expressions. For instance, suppose we read,
“Take two onions, one carrot, one turnip, and one head of
celery,”—what does this mean? It will be found practically
that these directions vary considerably according to the
neighbourhood or part of the country in which we live. For
instance, so much depends upon where we take our head of
celery from. Suppose we bought our head of celery in Bond
Street or the Central Arcade in Covent Garden Market on the
one hand, or off a barrow in the Mile End Road on the other.
Again, onions vary so much in size that we cannot draw any
hard-and-fast line between a little pickling onion no bigger
than a marble and a Spanish onion as big as a baby’s head.
It would be possible to be very precise and say, “Take so
many ounces of celery, or so many pounds of carrot,” but
practically we cannot turn the kitchen into a chemist’s
shop. Cooks, whether told to use celery in heads or ounces,
would act on guess-work just the same. What are absolutely
essential are two things—common sense and experience.
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